I surf because it sets me free from the crowd, it makes me feel alive.... When you ride a wave it is such a paradox - you are in control, guiding your board with your feet, steering, following the contour of the wave - but we all know when you are in the ocean you are everything but in control, you are always at her mercy. There is no denying that. To me that is the attraction, it's your skill against the might of the ocean. It requires all your attention, you simply forget about the rest of the world out there on land. It's just about you and the ocean then. Her energy surrounds and embraces you completely. It sounds selfish when you say it out loud but it is what it is. I always feel totally de-stressed after a surf, the stresses of the day is forgotten. Every session always has that one wave, that one moment that stands out from the rest - and you always want to come back for more, to repeat it or better it - it is addictive! It's a lifestyle... I am not talking about the 'movie' version of surfer, the long blond hair blowing in the wind with the air for brains style. I am talking about always being aware of the weather conditions, what the wind is doing, what the wind will be doing tomorrow, what the swell is like, what the swell prediction is for tomorrow. The lines around your eyes because you are always squinting into the sun, the salt on your eyebrows and the sand between your toes, sand in your car and in the shower at home. Sand everywhere.... You plan your life according to the ocean and her moods as best you can, if conditions are favorable after work then it's straight to the ocean. Same for weekends and any other free moment - the rest of your life is fitted in around that. I surf because it makes me happy, it makes me a better person.....
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The sup guy...
a 40something surfer from Cape Town that discovered SUP recently. The bug bit me hard. Archives
March 2016
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